Which needle should you be using?
Date Posted:28 February 2022
Each needle type is specifically designed to penetrate a certain fabric. Changing needles was not so necessary in the days when fabrics were only made of natural fibres. Today, modern fabrics like stretch knits, synthetics, etc. are used every day. However, when using these fabrics, changing the needle to match the type of fabric is important to gain the best stitch quality.
Anatomy of a needle
Shank: The section of the needle that is inserted into the machine. Round side to the front. Flat section to the back.
Groove: The thread lies in the groove as the needle shaft penetrates the fabric.
Scarf: Enables the stitch to be picked up. The scarf design varies according to the type of needle.
Size: Indicates the diameter of the needle blade often shown as 2 values (European/American).
Needle point shapes
Using the incorrect type of needle can cause skipped stitches and produce poor quality stitching. Many sewing problems can be avoided by regularly changing your needle and selecting the correct needle for the job. Below is a list of the basic machine needles and a guideline of which fabric is best suited to the needle type.
A quick tip to remember: Use a smaller needle size when sewing with lighter fabric. If you’re using a more dense/heavy fabric, use a larger needle size.
Needle Type |
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Embroidery Needles All fabric types. |
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Large Eyelet Embroidery Needles For use with glow in the dark threads. If you are experiencing issues when using a standard embroidery needle with metallic threads, we suggest trying this needle. |
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Chiffon, Georgette, Fine Lace, Organdy Net, Tulle, Batiste, Voile, Lawn, Gingham, Muslin, Poplin, Gabardine, Broadcloth, Linen, Velvet, Fake Fur, Wool, Curtain Fabrics. |
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Jersey - Wool, Cotton & Synthetic. |
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Microfibre, Satin & Silks. |
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Tricot, Lingerie Fabrics, Interlock, Double Knit, Fleecy, Lycra, Spandex. |
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For use with a quilt sandwich consisting of usually three layers: |
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Denim, Sailcloth, Canvas, Shadecloth, Corduroy. |
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Leather, Suede, Vinyl, Rubber Backed Curtains. |
Other Speciality Needles |
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Overlocker Needles All fabrics (finer fabrics use a finer needle) |
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Topstitch Needles Has an extra-large eye and deeper groove for use with heavier topstitching or decorative threads. |
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Hemstitch or Wing Needles Are designed for decorative stitching on tightly woven fabrics. Wide wing blades or fins on each side of the shank create openings in tightly woven fabric such as linen and batiste fabric to resemble entredeux trim. |
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Twin Needles Are generally used for topstitching on garments. Two needles are put on a single crossbar to create perfectly parallel, multiple rows of stitching in one pass using a single bobbin thread. |
When to change your needle
- Listen for clicking or thumping sounds—this often indicates a dull or damaged needle.
- A worn needle can cause poor results, machine damage, or even breakage, posing a safety risk.
- Needle lifespan varies—it might last anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours depending on the fabric.
- If you notice skipped stitches or thread breakage, replace the needle immediately.
- As a general rule, change the needle every 8 hours of continuous sewing.
